Embroider ing-machine



(N Model.) 10 Sheets-Sheet 2..V R. T. SMITH. BMBROIDBRING MACHINE.

No. 377,408. Patented Peb. 7, 1888.

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R. T. SMITH.

' BMBROIDBRING' MACHINE.

N0.377,4o8. Patented feb. 7.1888.

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No. 377,408. Patented Feb. 7,1888.

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(No Model.) v 10 Sheets-Sheet 5.

R. TSMITH. EMBROIDBRING MACHINE.

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EMBROIDERING. MACHINE.

No. 377,408. Patented Feb. 7, 1883.

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EMBROIDBRINGMAGHINB.

Patented Feb. 7', 1888.

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BMBROIDBRING MACHINE.. Y No. 377,408. Patented Peb. 7, 1883.

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nosvvELLA rr. SMITH, or NnsHUA, NEW HAMPSHIRE, AssrGNoR To HIMsELE, NATEvv. GODDARD, oEsAME PLACE, YAnn GEORGE H. DUNHAM, or

NEW YORK, Ngr.

EMBRomEmNe-'MA'CHINL -$3lfEELJIFICATIONfarming part ox' Letters PatentNo. 377,408, dated February 7, 18.88.Vv

Application filed June l0, 1885.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, RosWELL T.'SMITH, a citizen of the UnitedStates,residing at Nashua,

in the county of Hillsborough and State of NewV Hampshire, have inventedcertain new and useful Improvements in Embroidering-Machiues, of rwhichthei'ollowing is a specification, reference being had to theaccompanying drawings. t f

My invention relates to automatic mechanism for embroidering upon atextile fabric any suitable ornamental desiguof the kind ordinarilyproduced by what are commonlyknown as the Heilmann7 or "Swissembroidering-maehincs. f

ln order to clearly show the novel features of my invention andtoclearly and correctly point outthe new results effected thereby, I

shall briefly set forth at the outset of this broidering by machineryhas been practiced in substantially'the manner following: The

textile fabricor web upon which the design is to be produced is mountedupon a'frameiu such a manner as toimpart to such fabric the requisitetension. This fabricframe is so combined with well-known operativedevices that, it may be moved horizontally or vertically to any requireddegree, or,.if required, in the direction of a diagonal resultant. Ihenature of these movements and the degree of each depend upon thecharacter of the pattern which is to bellworked, and each movementrofthe fabric or web .must represent the displacement of the needleorneedles required forthe formation of eachysuccessive stitch, the

organization of the mechanism being suchI as to require that thisdisplacement shall beeii'eeted `I will then describe my inven-.

Serial No. 16922237. (No model.)

. by the movement ofthe'fabric-frame, andnotV by the adjustment of theneedles. "Ihe'thread by which the pattern is worked is' carried by 4adouble-ended needlehaving a central eye, the number of the needlesemployed in a sin-vy gle machine varying fronr three hundred (300) toone thousand, (1,000,) or thereabout, according to the size of themachine and the interval at which the needles are arranged upon a singleneedleea'rriage. These needles are` carried by gripping-bars' extendinghorizontally and paralletwith the surface of the yweb orvfabric, andthese gripping-bars are mounted upon and carried byneedle-carriagesfwhich move alterna'telytoward and fromthe fabric'frame. All the needles employed are'carried up to and projected throughthe web or fabric simultaneously, and their projecting endsare deliveredtosimilar grippingbars .mounted upon the carriage upon the oppositeside'of k70, t

the fabric, by which the whole range of needles is graspedsimultaneously, and by the movement ofthesecond or receiving carriagepulled through the web until the threads areV drawn taut and thestitchformedf DuringV the intervals between the successive passagesofthe needles through the `fabric the frame upon which the latter isstretched is moved in such adirectiou and to such a degreeY that whenthe needles return they will pass through the fabricat the vproperpointxfor thek forma# tion of they newor succeeding stitch.

It will beunderstood, of con rse, .that through NITED STATES] PATENT iritieni-l out the entire seriesl of needles' precisely the same stitchis made by each needle, and similar patterns or designs are embroideredby each needlein the series. j y

In the Swiss machines, by which the greater part of the embroidery soldin the vmarket is produced, it has been customary to effect the movementof the-Web by the hand of the oper` ator, the latter being guided by a'designerpatteruof enlarged or'colossal size, thesev eral adjustmentsbeing effected by a device commonly known as av pantograph,` the con;struction and operationwhereof are too familiar to require descriptionhere.

Y .95` In effeetlngthis adjustment considerable `m uscular vstrength andenduranceare required, in addition to`` great skill and long experience.In one form' of these machines, also, the needle-carriages are moved orreciprocated by the right hand of the operator, and the left hand isemployed in guiding the pantograph upon the enlarged pattern, while theneedle-bars are clamped and unclamped by mechanism operated by one orboth feet. In machines of another construction, while the fabric-framehas been adjusted by means of a pantograph similar to that mentionedabove, the needle-carriages have been reeiprocated by power, and thereversal of the movement of said carriages has been vautomaticallyeffected by a tension-bar resting upon the threads carried by theneedles, and rising and falling as the threads are tightened andslackened by the movement to and fro of the need1e-carriages,thereversal of the movement of each carriage being effected by the liftingof the tensionbar caused by the tension upon the threads as eachstitchis drawn home. It will readily be seen that the repeated adjustment of aweb or fabric ranging from the lesser sizes to a length of twenty-fourfeet, or thereabout, must be, when it is performed by manual effort, anextremely laborious undertaking. Moreover, in determining the degree ofadjustment by the use of the pantograph slight errors or variations froman exact pattern are unavoidable. NVhile these errors are reduced to theminimum both by the exaggeration ofthe size of the pattern and by theskill of the trained operator, they are nevertheless ofsuch character asto frequently and seriously impair the appearance of the.product, and ithas been long considered eminently necessary that the adjustment of thefabric-frame shall be effected by positive and automatic mechanism;- butthe organization of these machines has heretofore been such that theseresults have been impractical. It is the initial purposeof my invention,therefore, to eliminate the presence of an operator or attendant fromthe action of this class of mechanism, to effect the movements of thefabric-frame by positive means, to render this adjustment entirelyaccurate, and to effect what may be termed the stitch-forming adjustment byv automatic apparatus which is capable of giving most delicateand exact movements to the fabric-frame, the action of said mechanismbeing timed, determined in degree, and wholly controlled by aperforatedsheet having a step-by-step or intermittent feed, said sheetaccomplishing all the functions which devolve upon the operator orattendant in the Swiss machines heretofore mentioned.

l In this class of machines the separate threads, which are equal innumber to the whole number of needles employed, have each a lengthsubstantially equal to the maximum distance traversed by eitherneedle-carriage during its movement toward or from the web, sufficientadditional length being of course allowed to permit the ends to bedrawn'through the eyes of the needles and drop a little below the same.It will be readily understood that as the work progresses the threadsare constantly shortened by the slight consumption required for theformation of each successive stitch. It is evident, therefore, that ateach reciprocation of the needle-carriages the space traversed indrawing the threads through the web to form the stitch must diminish bythe exact quantity of thread required to elect such formation. Thisthread consumption is by no means in a constant ratio, since thestitchesare frequently of different length, according to the demands of thepattern to be worked. movements of each needle-carriage, by which thestitch formation is completed, must be arrested and reversed exactly atthe point when such movement has produced the degree of tension on thethreads which is required -to properly effect such formation. Heretoforethis reversal of the movement of the needlecarriages has in one class ofmachines been effected by the operator, as already mentioned. In a latermachine, however, it has been rendered automatic, the reversingmechanism being operated by means of a tension-bar,

which rests upon the threads between the web and the needle-carriage,said bar dropping as the threads slacken and rising as they are drawntant. This tension-bar is arranged parallel with the web and extendsover the whole series of threads employed, and is connected with arock-shaft operated by the rise and fall ofthe bar,whereby the shiftingclutch by which the reversal is effected is thrown into and out ofengagement with the actuating-gear, the reversalvbeiug thus effected atthe instant when the threads used in the production of the iigure ordesign are drawn taut upon the fabric. While this mode of operationl isin many respects desirable, it is nevertheless open to some objections,among which the following only need be mentioned here. Thepower requiredto effect the reversal being considerable, it' is evident that thestrain upon the threads, by which the tension-bar is raised, to effectsuch reversal must be such as not only to endanger the rupture of one ormore thereof, owing to the fact that inequalities in the web or in theset of the needles are liable to shorten some of the threads morerapidly than others, but, moreover, the resistance of the saidtension-bar is at all times liable to cause an excessive tension,whereby the stitches are drawn so closely into the fabric asto affect,and in some cases seriously impair, the integrity of the fab-- ric uponwhich the pattern is embroidered. This will readily be understood whenit is remembered that in certain kinds of work the 'embroidered designis produced by exceedingly-attenuated threads upon a textile fabricwhich is lightly woven, and which possesses such slight comparativestrength that a very gentle tension upon the threads carried by theembroidering-needles might virtually disrupt the web at the terminals ofeach stitch. This fact will more readily appear when it isrememberedthat a very little increase inthe friction of the reversingmechanism, owing to The retrograde IOO IZO

the absence of proper lubrication or to an undue accumulation of dust,may at any moment cause an excessive drag upon thethreads, and

the same result also might, even Withthe ut- `most care and'attention,be produced by a slight binding of the clutch-box, which is shifted-bythe rise of the embroidering-threads.

Y From these as Well as from other causes'not mentioned it is obviousthat an entire pattern .or stri p ofthe part] y-embroidered fabric mightat any moment be so far injured as to be ren-v dered Worthless. Y v

For these reasons it is one purpose of my invention to effect thereversal of the needle-.-Y

f formation. t

It is also'my purpose to render the thread-k tension by which thereversal is effected variable, in order that the same machineY may beadapted to Work upon fabrics and to produce designs of differentstrength and texture, and

requiring not only threads of different size and strength, but involvinga variation in the tension exerted upon such threads for the furmationof the stitch., I'propose, also, in this connection, to so organize thereversing mechanism that it may be operated by a verylight tension uponthe threads, and mayhave substantially an instantaneous action, wherebythe needle-carriages may be arrested at that ex-V act point in theirretrograde movement when the threads carried through the web have beendrawn home just far enough to properly form the stitch, thejprincipalobjects of my invention in this respect being to render the reversalautomatic, to effect it by the eX- erci'se of the minimum of power, tortime it with great precision, and to provide means whereby the"ten/sion required to effect such reversal may be varied to adapt themachine to different kinds of Work.

InV the production of certain classes of embroidery it is necessary toform openings or-l perforations in the web by removing portions ofthesame, such openings being necessary to the production of the pattern.Heretofore andprior to myinvention these cuttings have n beenformed, inmost instances by hand, by

the use of suitable tools; but this process isnot only slow and liableto a certain degree ofinaccuracy, but 'it requires the time and labor ofa skilled operator, Which materially eni hances the cost ofproduction..It isv my purpose, therefore, to provide simple mechanism havingautomatic Land positive action, which may be caused to travel over thefabric with .an intermittent movement or feed, which is subject toadjustment in degree, said mechanism being adapted to cut in the fabricat stated intervals any desired' series ot' cuttings, each the web,these cuttingsgbeing-formed prepara tory to the production ofthefinished strip. y It is also. my purpose to provide means for givingaccurate vertical adjustment to fthe frame supporting the automaticcutters, andto combine With the latter simpleand efficient theV distancebetween the successive cuttings or between the successive sets or groupsof cuttings may be varied to correspond with the Y `requirements of thedesign.V

' It is a further purposejof myinventon to combine withk eachneedle-carriagesimple l produced by theremoval of asmallportionof ymechanism'having positive action, whereby the threads which are carriedby the'double-` ended needles are effectuallyprevented from y beingwithdrawn from the eyes of said nee-yr f them at! the momentrwhen theneedlesi are shifted from onecarriage to the other'and while they arepassing through the web.

It is my object, also, to improve the construction and operation oftheneedle-carriers ,t Y' and t0 so forni the gripping-,bars that needles ofany desiredl size may be used therewith ywithout,sliift-ingsaid parts toaccommodate the finer ,varieties of needles,

In'a large portion of the different kinds of machine madel en'ibroiderylsold upon the y is one object of my present invention to pro- Y. videautomatic means whereby any required design may be produced by theformation of such a stitch, whether'the same be employed y forthecompletion o'fa previously-embroidered pattern or for the purpose offorming a design by the use of such a stitch only. i i

It is of great importance in this classofv` 4mechanism that theapparatusfshall be soporganized that any desired variation in propor-4IIC) tion may be readily effected between 'thedesign produced and thepattern from which,Y it is formedthat is to say, mypurpose is to soorganize the machine thatjby'giving different rates of speed tothevpartsbywhichthe adjustments of the fabriclframe are effected (the feedof the sheet by which said adjust ment is controlled being constant) Imay produce a design embroideredjupon the' web lcarried by said frameAwhich shall,`as regards-size or proportions, bear any desired relationto the original pattern.

In other words, \I propose to produce duplicate designs of differentsize by merely providing means whereby the pos-iti on of thefabric-frame may be varied rela- .I 25 relative speed of the mechanismadjusting the time, kind, and degree of such adjustmentare ycontrolled.` y

In describing the construction and operation' of the various partsv ofthisymachine Ishall, as

I have already stated, follow as nearly as possible the order ofoperation pursued in pro-v ducing an embroidered pattern thereby.

Referring to the drawings forming part of this application, Figure 1 isaplan view of the entire machine with the eXceptionof the devices whichcontrol the movements of thefabric-frame. Fig. 2 is a transversevertical section taken in the plane 2 2, Fig. 1, theparts omitted fromthelattertlgnre being shown, for convenience, at the left hand of thegure. Fig. 3 is a side elevation of the machine, the power, counter, anddriving shafts, with some of the connections, being omitted. Fig. 4 is adetail elevation, enlarged, of part of the mechanism shown in Fie. 3,including the mec-hair ism. for effecting an anton'iatic reversal of theneedlecarriages, means for giving movement to the devices for formingthe button hole stitch, and the apparatus for preventing theneedle-carriages from too closcl y approaching the web while the latteris in motion. Fig. 5 is a central vertical section of Fig. 4. Fig. 6 isa detail perspective, taken from the rear, of the reversing-lever shownin Figs. 4 and 5, detached. Fig. 7 is a detail. side elevation,enlarged, showing a portion of one of the needle-earriages, comprisingthe needle-bars, the thread-fastener, and the means by which said partsare actuated. Fig. Sis a section of Fig. 7, taken transversely to theneedlebars and showing thepartsin a differentposition. Fig. 9 is a frontelevation of a portion of the nee- .dle-bars shown in Figs. 7 andS, theother parts being omitted. Fig. 10 is a horizontal detail sectionshowing the actuating-levers by which the reversing devices shown inFigs. 4, 5, and 6 are operated. Fig. 11 is a transverse verticalsect-ion upon the line 11 11, Fig. 10. Fig. 12 is adetail showingtheconstructionofcertain portions of the reversinglever shown in Fig.10, detached. Fig. 13 is a detail showing a modified form of thevreversing mechanism. Fig. 14 is a detail View, in side elevation, ofthe mechanism for throwing the clutch whereby the apparatus foradjusting the fabric-frame is brought into operation. Fig. 15 is a planview of the parts illustrated in Fig. 14. Fig. 16 is a detail of thepulley shown in Figs. 14 and 15, together with the shaft upon which itis mounted, the latter being shown in dotted lines. Fig. 17 is a detailof the friction-disk shown in Fig. 14, detached. Fig. 1S is a frontelevation showing a modified construction of the parts illustrated inFigs. 14 and 15. Fig. 19 is a partial transverse section of the machine,taken in a vertical plane and substantially in the line of thesupportingvshaft by which the automatic cutting devices are fed andoperated, the same parts being shown in elevation in Fig. 2. Fig. 20 isa vertical section taken centrally through the cutting devices, showingtheir operating devices and 'ling-circuits.

pitman shown in Fig. 19, with its operating device, showingmeansi'oradjustingit to longer and shorter strokes. Fig. 22 is anenlarged detail section of Fig. 2l, taken across the line of thecentral. slot in the disk. Fig. 23 is a detail elevation, enlarged,showing the selfadjusting cutterplate used in combination with thecutters shown in Fig. 20. Fig. 24 is aview, partly in side elevation andpartly in 'front elevation, of the devices employed in forming thebutton-holestitch, the same parts being shown in reduced size in Fig. 2.Fig. 25 isa plan view of a portion of the perforated or stencil sheetwhereby the movements of the fabric'frame are automatically controlled.Fig. 26 is a diagram in which the stitch adjustments produced by thestencil are illustrated, the movement of the fabric-frame being denotedin the diagram by an enlarged representation of several stitches, theillustration also showing the method of calculating the length anddetermining the relative transverse arrangement of the several openingsin the stencil-sheet. Fig. 27 is a longitudinal vertical section of thestencittable with its connections, showing the stencil in place. Fig. 27is a bottom plan view of part of the table shown in Fig. 27, showing aplurality of the springingers and the control- Fig.`28 is a view, partlyin section and partly in elevation, of the hangerbracket containing thegearing which drives the shaft giving horizontal adjustment to thefabric-fraaie. y

ln the said drawings, the reference-letter A indicates any suitablesupporting-frame for the operative parts of the mechanism. \Vithin oneend of this frame, or near it, is journalcd a transverse shalt, B,extending from side to side ofthe frame and carrying upon cach end apulley or a sprocket, B. At or near the remote end of each side frame isjournalcd in any suitable bearing a sprocket, B, each being arranged inthe same plane of rotation wit-h the corresponding sprocket, B. Thesprockets last named are geared with sprockets `B2 by belts, chains, orthe equivalent thereof, B, the device shown being a belt havingperforations which engage with teeth or points upon the periphery ofeach pulley, as shown at Z) in Fig. 1.

Thepulleys or sprockets B are driven by power communicated from acounter-shaft, C, removed a little from one end ofthe machine. rlhiscounter-shaft carries two tight pulleys, C and C, which are belted by across and a 'straight belt, respectively, to p'ulleys VBL and B5 uponthe shaft B. Both pulleys last named are loose upon the shaft B, androtation in opposite directions is imparted to the latter by locking oneor the other of the said pulleys with the shaft, which is effected inthe manner presently tobe described. It is by the rotation of this shaftB that the needlecarriages receive movement toward and from the fabricupon which the design is produced.

IIO

377,408*` f v L Y g Y The fabric upon which the embroidered de-Y sign isproduced is supported in a frame, D,` consisting of two verticalmembers, D', rising from and rigidly connected with a-horizontalpiecehaving upon` each end a boss, d, tapped to receive a vert-ical shaft,D?, having a male thread formed upon its lower end. The verticalscrew-shafts are seated in bearing-blocks Dwhich straddle atransverseportion', A, of the supporting-frame A,'and their upper extremities arejournaled in the extremities of a bar,D,whichis channeledor slotted uponits upper edge to receive `a transverse strip, A2, ofthe frame, uponwhich said bar is adj ustable longitudinally in the manner presently tobe described.

Between the upper portions of the two ver tical shafts D2 is extended ahorizontal bar, D5, the ends whereof are either perforated or forked toembracel said shafts. Near each end of this bar is formed an openingwhich re-` ceives the threaded end of the upright mem- A ber D of thefabric-frame, nuts d being turned upon each upright t0 Support the barl)5 and give vertical adjustment thereto. A bar, D6, is mounted upon thelower ends of the -shafts Dand acts as a strutor brace topreventspringing the lower portions thereof.

To thelower horizontal member of the fabricframe is firmly connected aiiexible Hap, D1, of

any suitable-material, and to the upper parallel bar, D?, is connectedin like manner asimilar flap, DE. -The web W is attached to these iiapsby its longer parallelY edges, the attachnient being effected bycoarsestitching, or in any other suitable manner.

It should be noted that the flaps D7 and D8 should be made of strongandcomparatively inelastic material, lin order that where the propertensionl is imparted to the web there shall be little or no stretchingof the flaps. The web being connected with the frame in this manner,auyrequired tension may be imparted to it by simplyturning the nuts d inone direction oiwthe other. The adjustable barD5 being rigid, an equaltension may beimparted iu this lnanner to every part of the web.

In order to give proper rigidity to the stretching-bar withoutmaterially increasing its weight,a longitudinal rib may be formed K uponits upper surface,`as indicated inFig. 2.

The blocks D3, in which the vertical shafts D2 have bearing, are, asalready mentioned, supported upon atransverse portion,`A, of themachinefranie. One of the blocks D3 is tapped to engage with thethreaded end of a horizontal shaft, D9, theplain end of said shaftpassing through the other block and having a bearing inthe vertical postA3, which rises from the transverse support A.

It will be seen that by rotating the shaft D9 in one direction or t-heotherI can effect any required horizontal adjustment of thefabricframe.- yIn like manner the two vertical shafts D, which aregeared together by a belt, D1", running upon pulleys D, rigid upon theupvper extremities of said shaft, will produce vby their rotation anydesired vertical adjustment of the fabricframe; and by a combination'ofthese two-adjustments--the vertical andthe horizontal-I obtain everystitch adjustment which can by anyV possible pattern be re'- quired.vMoreover, the construction and organization of the adjusting mechanismisxsuch that it is capable of giving the minimum and maximumwebadjustments with such precis- Y ion and mathematical exactness thatembroidery produced upon` a machine'embodying thisV method of stitch adjustmentwill be far superior to the product of any machine in whichthe'adjustment is effected manually. j y Y The shafts D2 are operated bymeans of a pulley, D12, mounted upon one of said shafts'.

and drivenL by a belt or cord, D13,`carried by a pulley, O3, which isjournaled in a bracket .seg

hanging from the main shaft O4, which is pro*` vided with the maindriving-pulley C5. rlhis bracket,` which is' shown in Figs. land 28A atC, is' hungby a rod, G7, from the mai-n shaft C, as shown in elevationin Fig. 2, the bracket,-

being thereby dropped into about the -same horizontal plane withthepulley Dm. The shaft D2, carrying said gear or pulley, is connected withthe bracket by a rod or shaft,aC8,

(shown in Fig. 1,) theend of said rodhaving a fork, d?, which straddlesthe gear. The

hanger C7 is, provided with a swiveljoint, 613,.. vat any suitable pointto allow the bracket to turn slightly to accommodate the `pulleys to thehorizontal adjustment of the fabric-frame,

ythis s'wiveling adjustment being effected by the rod or shaft C8, whichalso serves to retainxthe cord or belting D13 ata uniform tension. Thisi i will be readily understood by taking Figs. y 1, 2, and 28 inconnection, from which it will be seen thatv the rod Cs is rigidlyconnected to the y bracketframe. C, while the drop-'rod C7, being hungfrom theshaft Cby a fork, 0*, (shown in Fig.2,) has a swinging motiontoward andv from the fabric-,frame as far as'may be relatter. Theswivel-joint diinthe drop-rodrCl,

vI zo Y quired lby the longitudinal movements ofthe v Y Fig. 2S, permitsthe bracket C6 to turn as the e' fabric-frame moves to and fro in a lineparal-y lel with the main shaft, and the rod C8' preservesvat all timesa uniform dist-ance between Ythebracket C6 and ther pulley Dthus pre-Lserving the tension of the `belt running from y the pulley on thebracketlto the pulley actuating the threaded shaft of the-fabric-frame.

Izo l The cord Dlwhich drives the vertical shafts y D2, is geared-with apulley, C, on ashaft, *05, which has bearing in said bracketC Mountedupon the same-Shaft are two pulleys, G9 and G10, one upon each sideofthe pulley C3. These pulleys are normally loose upon theshaft,and thehub ofthe central pulley, C3,is

vprovided with an annularchamber, d4, which,l

communicates withrecesses cih-formed'in the f hubs of both the otherpulleys.'

` Within longitudinal channels formedinthe shaft x C are arrangedsliding splines @which project outward beyond the hubs of the' outerpulleys, and have detents di, (see Fig. 28,) which engage with a collar,D, provided with aperipheral groove or channel, da, which receives pinsd, -carried by the forked end of a lever, D15, pivoted upon the bracketBy operating one or the other of these levers in the manner presently tobe described one of the splines d is thrown toward the adjacent outerend of the shaft and drawn into the recess d lnathe hub of the outerpulley, thereby locking said pulley to the shaft and causing the centralpulley, C3, to revolve with it during thel directions.

Yas

The two pulleys C and C are driven by a straight belt and a crossbelt, Cand C12, respectively carried by pulleys C13 and C upon the main shaftC". The outer pulleys upon the bracket, being loose upon the shaft,revolve continuously, the central pulley, C3, which drives the pulley D,by which the vertical shafts D2 are actuated, being motionless, exceptat such times as said central pulley, C, is locked with one or the otherof the pulleys Ci or G10.

I shall describe presently the manner in which the vertical adjustmentsof the fabricframe are effected automatically.

The horizontal adjustments of the fabricframe are,ras already stated,effected by the rotation in one direction or the other of thescrew-shaft D, (see Fig. 2,) which engages with one ofthe sliding blocksD3,moving upon the horizontal su pport'A. This shaft is driven inopposite directions by pulleys D16 and D,

(see Figs. 1 and 2,) rigid upon the shaft, and driven one by a straightand the other by a cross-belt, D and D, respectively. These belts arecarried by 'pulleys D`Z0 and D, loosely mounted upon a counter-shaft,C13, which receives movement from the main shaft 0*, by means of asuitable belt and pulleys. The shaft C*a has continuous revolution, andthe pulleysloosely mounted thereupon are brought separately into actionby means of clutches dw, which are splined upon and revolve with theshaft C, and are thrown into engagement with the pulleys by means oflevers E, (see Fig. 18,) fulerumed upon' brackets E', projecting fromthe standards supporting the shaft. Each of these levers is forked topartly embrace the sliding clutch, and from the branches of each forkproject pins which engage with ap'eripheral groove or formed in theclutch-box.

The levers E are actuated iu the manner following: Upon the free end ofeach is mountchannel, d,

'ed an armature, du, and opposite each armature and within a suitabledistance therefrom is arranged an electro magnet, E2. These magnets arevitalized by a current produced by any suitable battery, and the momentthe circuit is made the core of the magnet attracts the armature of thelever, and thereby throws the clutch into engagement with the pulley andsets the latter in motion, said engagement continuing as long as themagnet holds the armature. rlhe instant the circuit is broken, however,a spring, (Z13, connected with the end of the lever, throws the armatureoff the core and disengages the clutch from the pulley.

By operating one or the other of the pulleys D20 and D21 in the mannerdescribed the fabric-frame receives any required horizontal ad justmentin either direction.

The construction of the clutchshifting le vers and the arrangement ofthe magnets are shown in detail in Fig. 1S.

I vhave already described the mechanism by which I give verticaladjustment to the fabricframe, and have shown in connection with Fig. 28the devices by which the actuatingpulley is driven in oppositedirections. I have shown that the clutchshifting levers are pivoted uponthe bracket and that by their action the sliding splines are operated insuch a manner as to look the central pulley with either one of the outerpulleys, thereby giving rotation to the vertical shafts of thefabricframe in opposite directions. I will now describe the meanswhereby the shiftinglevers are operated, and will then show the mannerin which the stitch adjustment. is rendered wholly automatic. i

Upon the bracket C are mounted'in suitable bearings, D, shafts D23,which carry pulleys D2, each of which receives continuous rotation fromapulley, D25, upon the main shaft 0*. Upon each one of the shafts D23 isloosely mounted a belt-pulley, Di", which is clasped upon each of itsvertical faces by a frictiondisk, D28, which is splined upon the shaft,the construction being such that said disks grip the pulley with forcesufficient to effect the rotation of said pulley with the shaft, butpermit the pulley to slip between them whenever the resistance to itsrevolution shall be snfficient to overcome the frictional grasp of thedisks. Over each pulley is carried a belt, D, havingone end secured toany suitable support, D3", and the other connected to the horizontal armof a bell-crank, D, which is pivoted upon the hanger CT and has theextremity of its vertical arm connected with the free end ot one of theshifting-levers DS.

Pivoted upon abracket forming part of the shaftsupport DL2 is` abellfcrank,'D2, having upon one arm an armature, d1", and carrying inthe forked extremity of the other arm an idleroll, D. Directly beneaththe armature d is placed an electromagnet, DI, which will, whenvitalized by the current passing through its coil,attract the armatureand draw XOO ' ficient force to bind said beltuponthecontinuously-revolving roll D2g Vand cause the latter to draw withthe required power upon the' bell-crank D31, whereby one or the other ofthe sliding splines d6 is operated. Thek idleroll D"3 will of courseremain in engagement with the belt as long as the current iowsuninterruptedly through the coil of the magnet; but by the constructionI have already described, when the pulley D`Z7 has fully accomplishedits function, the strain upon the belt D becomes sufficient to slip saidpulley between the friction-disks carrying it, whereby it exerts aconstant and continuous tension upon the belt, and, through thebell-crank and the shifting-lever connected to it, holds the spline inengagement and effects the rotation ofthe pulley C3 as long as themagnet remains vitalized. The construction and arrangement of the partsthus described arc duplicated upon the opposite side of the bracket, asthe outer pulleys, C11 and C, revolve in opposite directions. Each ofthe shifting-levers is restored to its original position when thebattery'cir cuit is broken by means of aspiral springm. Slightmodifications of construction of the slip-pulley and the.friction-disks" by which it is carried are shown upon an enlarged scalein Figs. 14 to 16, inclusive, and will be fully described hereinafter.

I will now describe the manner in which the stitch adjustment isrendered automatic.

I have shown'in Fig. 2,at the left hand of said figure,asupporting-frame,E3, ofany suitable form and construction. This framecarries a table, E4, which is shown in detail iny f f Fig. 27. In thistable is formed a broad transverse opening, E6.

.and parallel. `with the'said opening, sufficient space only beingallowed to permit the free` passage ofthe stencil. The bar Elis formedof any suitable conducting material, and is supportedat veach end ininsulated bearings.

To the under surface of one of the non-conducting plates E5 are'attached two or more `springtingers, ES, having their points soarranged that they will by their own elasticity spring through theopening E6 and make contact with the bar El. Each of these fingers isformed ofcondncting metahand to each oneis attached by a binding-post,e, a wire, E9, leadt ing from one pole ofva battery, By, the circuitbeing through the linger, the bar El, the coil of an electromagnet', E2,and 4thence to the other pole of the battery.

I have shown in the present case five of the spring-fingers E8, thatnumber being-prefer able for reasons presently to be shown; but I do notlimit my invention to any specific number of suchdevices. 7o

The stencil-sheet S, which runs'over the table E, is carried byfeed-rolls El? and E, then former being driven by a pulley, E, while thej latter-roll is journaled in springbearings E13, the elastic tensiouofwhich may be varied by adjusting a set-screw, E, upward or downward. Thestencil is made of any suitable tine, partly-vuleanized rubber,`or othersubstance. from this illustrationit will be seen that the sheet isperforatedby a series of longitudinal cuttings, which Ihave designatedin the drawings by the reference-letters a, a', a2, as, and a4." Theseyopenings are so arranged upon the sheet transversely that each seriescoincides with one of the spring-iingersE. lNow, ast-bestencil is fedforward over the table it will be seen that the said fingers will springthrough the openings and make contact'with the bar'E?, 9o' therebyclosing the circuit i'n which said finger lies.

I have indicated-at the right hand of Fig.

25 the function of each series of perforations. ,y The series wand amake and break the cir-95 v,cuits by which the electro-magnets E2 inFigr 18 are vitalized. These magnets throw the clutches d1, by which thepulleys D20 and D21 are brought into act-ion. These pulleys eiiect ingframerin` opposite directions, in the manner already described. kThedegree otsuch adjustment is exactly proportioned yto fthe.

circuits in which the electro-magnets D are interposed.' Thesemagnetszare mounted upon the bracket C6 and throw the splines by whichthe pulley C3 is locked with one or the otherofgthe-.oppositely-revolving pulleys Cf and/C10; 1 ro Thereby, as I havealreadyl explained, I actuj l ate the vertical screw-shafts D2 andeffect the ver'ticaladjustments of the'fabric-frarne.

YI have introduced inFig. 27two battery-'circuits merely for the purposeof more complete 1x15 illustration, in one of which' theV magnet actsupon the shiftinglever `direct,while in thel other it actuates alevercarryingan idle-roll which binds the belt upon the continuouslyisoperated. Ipopose to employ either one or both of these forms, ascircumstances may require. j

Ihe pulley E, (see Figs. 2 and 27,) by which the rolls feeding thestencil are rotated, is 1'25 driven by a cross-belt from a pulley, E15,upon a counter-shaft, E16, which carries a cone-pulley, E, belted to areverse cone,E1s, uponthe maingshaft, as shown in Fig. 2. The purpose ofthis construction will `be explained herein- V/ after. i The finalseries of perforations, c4, inthe stennon-conducting material, such aspaper, gela- It is showny in plan in Fig. 25, and .8o .j

the horizontal adjustments ofthe fabric-carryxcQ length ofthe opening bywhich it is effected. In likemanner the series a2 and as make the 105 Irevolving pulley bywhich the shifting-lever `12o fl cil is employed fortwo purposes, one being to hold the locking-clutch in operativeengagement with the pulley from which the rotation of thestencil-feeding rolls is derived, while the second function thereof istov break the circuit of the magnet effecting such engagement and arrestthe movement of the stencil after each stitch adjustment has beencompletely effected. It is hardly necessary to say that in this as wellas in the four series of cuttings which control the vert-ical andhorizontal adjustments of the fabric-frame the electric circuit isinterrupted or broken by the progressive movement of the stencil, whichbrings the imperforate portions c5 thereof between the spring-fingers EBand the bar El, as clearly shown in Fig. 27.

The several stitch adjustments must necessarily take place between thesuccessive passages of the needles through the fabric, since the lattermust, at the inst-ant each passage is effected, remain without motion inthe proper threads, which are consumed by the formation of the design,it is evident that the stitch ad-v j ustment cannot be so timed as tocorrespond,

accurately with the stitch formation. It is necessary, therefore, thatafter effecting each successive stitch adjustment the stencil should bearrested, and that its movement should not be resumed until the stitchcalled for by such adjustment has been so far formed as to permit themovement of the fabric preparatory to the next succeedingstitch.

Referring, now, to Figs. 2 and 27, the driving-pulley E15, by which thestencil is moved, is loose upon the shaft El, which receives continuousrevolution from the main shaftin the manner already described. Mountedupon and splined to the shaft is a clutch, El, which is thrown by ashifting-lever, El", into and out of engagement with the pulley. Thislever is pivoted upon a bracket, E, and is provided with an armature,e?, mounted upon its free end. `Upon a suitable support is mounted anelectro-magnet, E, the coil whereofis in eircuit with that one of thespring-fingers E8 which registers with the series a4 of thesteneilperforations. The clutch is disengaged from the pulley by meansof a spring, c", attached to the free end of the lever, whereby thearmature el is thrown off the magnet the moment the circuit is broken,the movement of the stencil being thereby arrested.

Referring, now, to Fig. 25 of the drawings, wherein the large arrow atthe left hand of the figure indicates the direction traveled by thestencil, it will be noted that the initial extremities of theperforations in the several series lie or may lie in substantially thesame transverse line, whereas the perforations in the series a." areprolonged, so that their linal extremities or terminal points fall alittle behind the terminals of the longest perforations lyingtransversely op positc. [n order to make this matter easily understood,I have numbered three of the openings shown in Fig. 25 as fol lows:

rlhe reference-nnmeral l indicates the perforation by which thefabric-frame is adjusted horizontally toward the right, as alreadydescribed, while the figure 2 denotes the downward adjustment, thesemovements being represented-by the small arrows at the right of the-figure, it being understood that the directions indicated by the arrowsare merely relative and have no connection with the arrangement of theligure upon the drawing-shcet.

The ligure 3 denotes the opening in the series (6*. A transverse line,a' a, will coincide with the initial extremities of each of theseopenings, but a parallel line, as yy, drawn through the terminal of theperforation 3 will fall bchind the terminals of both the perforations land 2. rlhe purpose of this construction is as follows: As theperforations in the series a are those by which the magnet E isvitalized, wherebyY the progressive movement of the stencil is effected,it is evident that the latter must at each movement be carried farenough to break the circuits corresponding to the perforations l and 2,which, as I have explained, is effected by feeding the stencil farenough so that the imperforate portion thereof is interposed between thespring-fingers E8 and the conducting-bar El. For this reason, therefore,the pcrforations in series a' are each prolonged beyond the terminal ofthe longest perforation inthe other series.

It should be noted that in the preparation of thestencil perforationsshould not be formed side by side, except in those eases where the oneperforation gives vertical and the other horizontaladjustment.rlhesemovexnents may take place simultaneously, as I have indicated inthe case of the openings denoted by the reference-numerals 1 and 2. v

After each stitch adjustment has been effected and the movement of thestencil has been arrested in the manner described, the stitch is formedby the mechanism presently to be described. After the needles havepassed completely through the web, and while the carriage receiving themis retreating, in order to draw the stitch into the fabric, it isnecessary that the succeeding stitch adjustment should be effected, andfor this purpose an impulse must be given to the stencil sufficient towithdraw the imperforate portion by which the circuit is broken inseries a. from between IIO IIS

, stant this is effected the circuit is madev and themagnet Eglwill'holdthe clutch in engage- `mentwith the feedingpulley E, Fig. 2, until thecircuit is again brokenv after the adjust ment is finished.

v Although it is an anticipation of thevproposed order of description, Iwill explain at this point the means by which I automatically impart tothe stencil its initial forward movementafter each interval of rest.

Referring to Fig. 3 of the drawings, upon the horizontal member A4 ofthe frame are journaled disksEla, one upon each side of the standard orupright A3 of the frame. Upon the axis of each disk is pivotally mounteda pawl, E,`the points whereof project slightly beyond the peripheries ofsaid disks and are beveled off oppositely, so that the projecting anglelies nearest the upright A3. Behind each pawl a pin, e4, is rigidly setin the disk, anda leaf-spring, e?, holds each pawl against the pin,while at the same time the elasticity of said spring permits the pawl tobe tilted over toward the spring without disturbing the posi-` tion ofthe disk. l Projecting from the periphery of each disk EZ3 is a stud orfinger, e, to which is connected i a wire or cord, E, which is carriedup to and connected with the horizontal arm ofa bellcrank, E26, which ispivoted upon a bracketframe,l E. (Shown in Fig. V2.) The vertical arm ofthis bell-crank is connected by a wire, el, with the upright arm of asimilar bellcrank, E28, mounted upon the same bracket, and thehorizontal arm of the latter bell-crank is connected by a wire, E2",(shown in Fig. 2,) with a third bell-crank, E3", the vertical arm of thelatter being attached to the-free eX- trenlityof the shifting-lever E20(see Fig. r2) by any suitablemans. Upon each of vthe carrier-blocks F,by which the needle-carriages are supported, as shownA in'Fig. 3, isformed a stud or point, es, projecting from the lower surface of saidblock. Now, as either of these carriages approaches' the fabric thisstud will ride over the 'pawl E, tilting it inward as it passes, butproducing no `movement of the disk. As either one of the carriagesrecedes from the fabric, however, the stud e? will en` gage with thepoint of the pawl and will give a partial rotation to the disk, therebydrawing upon the wire E25, which is connected to said disk, rocking thebell'cranksE, E28, and E, and thus throwing the l locking-clutch El?into engagement with the pulley E, from which the movementof the stencilis derived. The engagement effectedin this mannerneed be for an vinstantonly, since an exceedinglylimited movement of the stencil is sufficientto make the circuit in the succeeding perforation of series a* in thestencil, whereupon the magnet E22 is vitalized and the clutch held in .Yengagement by its attraction untiltthe stitch adjustment is completed.

It will beseen byreference to Fig. 3 that wires E25 under tension for amoment, or until the circuit-breaking portion of the stencil hasstencil, andthe bar El. 4 l

By the mechanism thus described every possible stitch adjustment of thefabricframe is automatically effected with the cisionr and accuracy.

gerEs, which registers with series a4 of the' 2 and 3) arecarrier-blocks F, each having a freemovement in theblocks ineitherdirection. Mounted npon'each pair of these blocks is a transverseshaft, F', mounted in a suitable which support the needle-carriages.-These holding mechanism in Figs. 7, 8, and 9.

The needles which carry' the embroideringthreads are of the'construction usuallyem-y the upper portion of the carriagesandfneedleshown substantially in Figs. 7 and 8,-,.each

Yendand having a central eye ywhich carries the thread. Upon each of thecarrier-bars F2 is 4mounted a needle-bar, F3, provided at suitable andequal intervals with V-shaped slots orfapertures f, in which the needlesrest. This construction permits the use of needles of va` Y theneedle-holdingban by means of a grasping and releasing bar, Ft,

the carriage by ashaft, F6. Upon the barF* is mounted a strip or blockof elastic material,

lying in the slots j', and which, by its elasticity, is readily forcedinto the said slots, so that it rection by the belts orchains B3, (seeFigs.l 1, 2, and 3,) which receive movement from the sprockets B. Uponthe shaft B, carrying these The studs e8 upon the under surface ofthecarrier-blocks F should have sufficient `eXf tent longitudinally, sothat they will hold the Y fully withdrawn from between the spri-,ng-nf 4The needles are `held upon each needle-bar.`

F7, which is clamped down,v upon thevneedles will securely hold needlesof anyfsize, evenv below thehorizontalsurface of theneedle-bar greatestpre .p

Mounted upon the horizontaland parallel `members of the frame (shown atAzvin Figs.`

central longitudinalfslot or channel which -receives the edge' of therail A2l andpermitsA Q f bearing, as shown in Figs." 1 and 3,andupon leach of these shaftsare mounted the' arms F2,

parts are shown in plan in Fig. l, andas to 'I IOO ployed'in this classyofkme'chan'ism.y ;They are v needle being provided with a point uponeach rions sizes without the necessity ofshifting v which is placed uponan arm, F5, pivoted-upon Y and released, is operated by acam,F8, bymeans l sprockets, are mounted two loose pulleys, B4 and B5, which aredriven in opposite directions by a cross and a straight belt frompulleys C and G2, both fast upon a Continuouslyrevolving counter-shaft,G.

Splined upon the shaft B adjacent to each of the loose pulleys areclutches BG and BT, and connected therewith are clutch-shifting leversBE and B, both pivoted upon a bracket, B10. The shaft B is revolved inopposite directions successively by the alternate engagement of theseclutches with their pulleys.

By reference to Fig. 3 it will be'seen that the belts B3 pass completelythrough the carrier-blocks. rlhey also have free and unobstructedmovement through the body of each block. Upon each belt intermediateofthe Vneedle-carriages is rigidly fastened a drivingblock, B, and toeach carrier-block F is connected a cord, F?, running over a pulley, Fw,journaled upon the remote side ofthe standard, and having a suitableweight, F, attached to its end. It will readily be seen that the gravityof these weights will draw the needlecarriages toward and up to thefabric,each carriage in turn closely following the driverblocks B asthey approach the opposite faces of the web, as substantially showninFig. 3. It will be noted from this figure that after each carriage hasbeen drawn closely up to thepweb or fabric it remains in that positionwhile the other carriage accomplishes its retrograde movement and untilit again reaches the fabric. l

It is necessary to the action of this class of machines that the needlesshall be driven through the web from opposite sides alternately and.that they shall be received and clamped in the carriage upon the sideremote to their approach,which carriage then recedes, drawing thethreads up until the stitch is fully formed in the web by a propertension upon the threads. The instant this point is reached the movementof the needle-carriage must be reversed and it must return to deliverits needles, after driving their projecting portions through the web, tothe other carriage, by which the operation described is-repeated. Torender these several actions wholly automatic, it is necessary that,after the one carriage has driven the projecting ends of the needlesthrough the web and into the channelsf of the needle-bar mounted uponthe other carriage and lying closely against the opposite face of theweb, the clamping-bar F'L upon the one carriage shall be released atsubstantially the same moment that the same part upon the other carriageis thrown down upon the needles. It may, however, in some cases bedesirable that the needles should be clamped in the jaws of the carriagereceiving them an instant before they are released by the jaws of theother carriage, and I have made provision for automatically effectingsaid operation in either way. It is also necessary, as I have alreadyremarked, that each needle-carriage should cease its retrograde movementand return toward the fabric at the instant when the tension of thethreads is such as to draw the stitch fully home on the fabric, sincetooslight tension will leave the stitches loose, while too strong a pullupon the threads will cause the fabric to buckle, loosening the stitcheswhich have been properly formed and ruining or greatly injuringtheproduct of the machine.

-I will first explain how I effect the antomatic locking and unlockingof the needlejaws, and will then describe the means whereby the reversalof the needle carriages is au tomatically effected.

Referring to Figs. 3, 7, 8, and 9 of thedrawings, I have already shownhow the needles are held in the channeled needlebar F3 by theclamping-bar F arms, F5, one at each end of the carriage, pivoted upon ashaft, F6. To the extremities of these arms are attached spiral springsF1, connected at the other end to the arm FIz of the carriage. Thesesprings, when the arm is free to yield to said springs, by their tensionwill raise the clamping-bar and release the entire series of needles.The clamping-bar is thrown down by a cam, F8, rigidly mounted upon anaXis,f, journaled in a boss upon the arm F`', the cam bearing againstthe under side of the rear portion of the arm F5. Upon the axisf isrigidly mounted a crank-arm, F, the free end whereof is connected by alink, F15, to the end of a lever, Fw, pivoted between its ends upon thearm F2. The lower end of thislever extends down very nearly to the uppersurface of the carrier-block F, rand is pivotally attached to the end ofa slide-bar, F12-which rests upon the carrier-block and extends somedistance beyond its forward end, as shown in Fig. 3, and is providedupon its lower edge with a square notch,f2. Upon the upperend of thedriving-block Bu is formed a ridge or feather, f3, which engages withthe notch in the slide when the parts are in the position shown at theright hand of Fig. 3, with the clamping-bar locked down upon theneedlebar.

The const ruction thus far described is identical withthatupontheremainingcarrier-blocks; but it should be noted that the slides F17upon the same side of the machine are not in the same vertical plane,but are so placed that as the carrier-blocks approach each other'the oneslide will pass the other and lie side by side with it. (See Fig. l.) y

It may be noted at this point that the construetion is such (as willhereinafter be described) that the adjacent ends of the carrier-blocks,when they most nearly approach each other, are separated by a spacewhich is at least greater than the thickness of the drivingblock B, asshown in Fig. 3, and this limit of separation may be increased ordiminished,as circumstances may require, said interval of separationbeing controlled by thevlength of the stop-brackets F18 and thecarrier-blocks F,

rlhis bar is carried by two IIO

